Showing posts with label home. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home. Show all posts

Friday, October 25, 2013

How to Unclog a Gutter



How to Unclog a Gutter

Article From HouseLogic.com



By: Douglas Trattner
Published: January 23, 2013



Unclog a blocked rain gutter as quickly as possible to prevent damage to your landscaping, home exterior, gutters, and foundation.


Clean your rain gutters (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/how-to-clean-rain-gutters/) at least twice a year. Otherwise, debris like leaves and twigs can clog up your gutter system, causing potential harm to your house and landscaping (http://www.houselogic.com/outdoors/landscaping-gardening/) -- not to mention the gutters themselves. Here's how to identify and fix a clogged gutter.

Is My Gutter Clogged (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/fast-fixes-common-gutter-problems/)?
When it rains, here are the telltale signs of a clogged gutter:
          Water spills over the edges of a gutter.

          Water sprays like a fountain from gutter seams and elbow joints.

          Water doesn't flow out the bottom of downspout extensions.

If it's not raining, look for these telltale signs:
          Eroded earth directly below a gutter.

          Peeling paint on siding and fascia.

          Wet, moist, or dirty siding (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/how-to-clean-siding/) beneath the gutter.

          Gutters pulling away from the fascia (likely caused by excessive weight).

Where's the Gutter Clogged?

The downspout cage, a wire strainer designed to trap debris while allowing water to flow through, is located where the downspout intersects the gutter. Often, this item is bent or out of place.

Gutter hangers and spikes often slip free from the fascia, landing in the gutter. These obstructions catch leaves and twigs, causing clogs.

Downspout elbows and seams are likely spots for clogs, too. Working your way down from the gutter, tap the outside of the downspout with a screwdriver and listen for a dull thud (as opposed to hollow ring). This will indicate the location of the clog.

If you still haven't identified the location of the clog - and you have downspouts that descend below ground level - then the clog likely is in an underground pipe.

How to Unclog a Gutter

If the clog occurs at the downspout cage:
1. Remove and clean it.
2. Remove all the accumulated debris in the gutter.
3. If the cage is in good shape, firmly re-seat it into the downspout hole.
4. If the cage is damaged or missing, replacement screens cost just a few bucks.

If the clog is caused by loose hangers or spikes:
1. Clean debris from clogs.
2. Reposition or repair the gutter supports.

If the clog occurs at an elbow or seam - and you can reach it from above:

1. Try to free the obstruction with a stick, plumbing snake, or pressure washer outfitted with a telescoping wand.
2. If you can't reach it, simply disassemble the downspout and remove the clog.

If the clog is below-grade, it's the most difficult to clear, and may require excavation. But before that:

1. Remove the downspout where it enters the ground and try to clear the clog using a plumbing snake.
2. Turn on a garden hose and force it into the underground portion of the line; the water pressure may dislodge the clog.

Season-by-Season Lawn Maintenance Calendar



Season-by-Season Lawn Maintenance Calendar

Article From HouseLogic.com



By: Douglas Trattner
Published: April 08, 2013



Follow our season-by-season lawn maintenance calendar to get a barefoot-worthy lawn and ensure great curb appeal.


Early Spring

Like so many maintenance jobs, everything goes smoother - and you'll get better results - with proper preparation. Early spring is the time to get ready for lawn-growing and mowing season.
Sharpen mower blades to ensure clean cuts. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving jagged edges that discolor the lawn and invite pathogens.

Sharpen mower blades (http://www.houselogic.com/news/lawns/lawn-mower-care-sharpen-blade-clean-cut/) once each month during grass-cutting season. Have a backup blade (about $20) so that a sharp one is always on hand.

Tune up your mower with a new sparkplug ($3-$5) and air filter ($5-$10). Your mower might not need a new sparkplug every season, but changing it is a simple job, and doing it every year ensures you won't forget the last time you replaced your sparkplug.

Buy fresh gas. Gas that's been left to sit over the winter can accumulate moisture that harms small engines. This is especially true for fuel containing ethanol, so use regular grades of gasoline.

If you need to dump old gasoline, ask your city or county for local disposal sites that take old fuel.

Clean up your lawn. Time to get out the leaf rakes and remove any twigs and leaves that have accumulated over the winter. A thick layer of wet leaves can smother a lawn if not immediately removed in early spring. Cleaning up old debris clears the way for applying fertilizer and herbicides.

Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)
 Spring
Depending on your weather, your grass will now start growing in earnest, so be ready for the first cutting. Don't mow when the grass is wet - you could spread diseases, and wet clippings clog up lawn mowers.

Fertilizing: Both spring and fall are good times to fertilize your lawn. In the northern third of the country, where winters are cold, fertilize in fall - cool weather grasses go dormant over winter and store energy in their roots for use in the spring.

For the rest of the country, apply fertilizer just as your grass begins its most active growth. For best results, closely follow the application directions on the product. You'll spend about $50 to $75 per application for an average ¼-acre lot.

Aeration: Aerating punches small holes in your lawn so water, fertilizers, and oxygen reach grass roots. Pick a day when the soil is damp but not soaked so the aeration machine can work efficiently.

Related: More about lawn aeration (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-aeration-tips-tools/)

Pre-emergent herbicides: Now is the time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent crabgrass and other weeds from taking root in your lawn. A soil thermometer is a handy helper; you can pick one up for $10-$20. When you soil temperature reaches 58 degrees - the temperature at which crabgrass begins to germinate - it's time to apply the herbicide.

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)
 Early Summer
Watch out for grubs: Warm weather means that grub worms, the larvae stage of June, Japanese, and other beetles, start feeding on the tender root systems of lawns. Affected lawns show browning and wilting patches.

To be certain that the culprits are grubs, pull back the sod and look for white, C-shaped grubs. If you see more than 10 per square foot, your lawn should be treated with a chemical pesticide.

Milky spore is an environmentally friendly way to control some species of grubs. When using insecticides, read and follow all label directions, and water the product into the soil immediately. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.

Grass-cutting tip: Your grass is starting to grow fast, and you might even be cutting more than once a week to keep up. To keep grass healthy, mow often enough so you're removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade.

Pesky weeds: Weeds that have escaped an herbicide application should be removed with a garden fork. Use a post-emergent herbicide only if you think the situation is getting out of hand.

Check out our guide to some common types of weeds (http://www.houselogic.com/photos/lawns/common-weeds/) and tips on how to get rid of them. (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/landscaping-gardening/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-naturally/)

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)
 Summer
Here's a good mantra to guide you through the heart of grass-mowing season: The taller the grass, the deeper the roots, the fewer the weeds, and the more moisture the soil holds between watering.

With that in mind, here's how to ensure a healthy, green lawn:
          Set your mower blade height to 3 inches.

          Deep and infrequent watering is better for lawns than frequent sprinkles, which promote shallow root growth. In general, lawns need about 1 inch of water per week to maintain green color and active growth.

Lawns that receive less than that will likely go dormant. That's okay, the grass is still alive, but dormant lawns should still receive at least 1 inch of water per month. Your grass will green up again when the weather brings regular rains.
          To check the output of a sprinkler, scatter some pie tins around the yard to see how much water collects in a specific length of time. Having a rain gauge ($5 to $20) will help you keep track of how much water the lawn receives naturally.

          At least once each month, clean underneath your mower (http://www.houselogic.com/news/lawns/clean-mower-limit-lawn-disease/) to prevent spreading lawn diseases.

          Although it's OK to leave grass clippings on the lawn where they can decompose and nourish the soil, large clumps of clippings should be removed. Regularly rake up any leaves, twigs, and debris.

If your grass seems to be stressed out, check out our advice on what to do if your lawn is turning brown (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/brown-grass/).

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)
 Early Fall
The best time to patch bare or thin spots is when the hot, dry days of summer have given way to cooler temps. Follow these simple steps:

1. Remove any dead grass.

2. Break up the soil with a garden trowel.

3. Add an inch of compost (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/composting/start-compost-pile/) and work it into the soil.

4. Add grass seed that's designed for shade or full sun, depending on the area you're working on. Spread the seed evenly across the bare patch.

5. Use a hard-tooth rake to work the seed into the soil to a depth of about half an inch.

6. Sprinkle grass clippings over the patch to help prevent the soil from drying out.

7. Water the area; you'll want to keep the patch moist, so lightly water once a day until the seed germinates and the new grass gets about one inch tall.

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)
 Fall
Your main job in fall is to keep your lawn free of leaves and other debris. You can use a mulching mower to break up leaves (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/landscaping-gardening/how-to-mulch-leaves/) and add the organic matter to your soil, but be sure to clean up any clumps so they don't kill the grass.

In the northern one-third of the country, now is the time to fertilize your lawn. Your grass will store the nutrients in its roots as it goes dormant over the winter, and your lawn will be ready for a jump start when spring warms the ground.

This is also the time to clean up your garden (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/gardens/fall-garden-cleanup/).

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)

How to Fix Common Wall and Floor Problems



How to Fix Common Wall and Floor Problems

Article From HouseLogic.com


By: Deirdre Sullivan
Published: September 20, 2013


Although some maintenance projects are best left to the pros, these three easy DIY fixes will give you bragging rights.

We turned to three bloggers for ideas on how to tackle some little, but nagging, household wall and floor issues.
A Made-Up Drywall Repair
The problem: Concealing drywall damage is a tricky business that requires a handful of drywall tools (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/repair-tips/must-have-drywall-tools/) and materials to make walls look like new. To fix coin-sized holes, many traditionalists use mesh or paper tape. But not Lesli DeVito, the DIY blogger behind My Old Country House.
The fix: Cosmetic wedges! DeVito first tried patching the two nickel-sized openings with cement board she had lying around, but the pieces didn't fit as you can see in the picture below (left).
Image: Lesli DeVito of My Old Country House blog (http://myoldcountryhouse.com/a-clever-way-to-patch-a-hole-in-the-wall/)
 Tool list:
          Make-up sponges

          Scissors

          Spackle

          Putty knife

          Sandpaper

How to:

1. Cut the wedges into pieces that are slightly larger than the holes.
 2. Spackle the drywall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/repair-tips/repair-walls-give-rooms-fresh-face/) and wipe off the excess.
 3. When the spackle dries, sand the area until it's smooth.
4. Add a fresh coat of paint.
Now DeVito challenges people to find where the holes were; go ahead, take a peek (http://myoldcountryhouse.com/a-clever-way-to-patch-a-hole-in-the-wall/).
Related: Another Clever Drywall Fix (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/repair-tips/99-cent-store-solution-3-patch-drywall-hole/)
 A Seamless Way to Remove Nails from Trim and Flooring
Image: Dadand.com (http://dadand.com)
 The problem: You can save some dough by using salvaged materials (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/green-remodeling/saving-money-salvaged-building-materials/) like trim and oak flooring. But before you can install or even safely store them, you have to pull out any old nails -- without damaging the wood.
The fix: Although you might be tempted to whack the nail from the back with a hammer and then yank it, don't. That can mar the surface. Instead, pull the nails out from the back, says Peter Fazio from the site Dadand.
Tool list:
          Pliers

          Work gloves

          Drop cloth

How to:

1. Put the trim or floorboard face down on a drop cloth (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/painting/using-a-drop-cloth/) to protect the front surface.
2. Using your pliers, grab the nail and gently roll onto the curved part of the tool until the nail pops out.
If the old filler used to conceal the nail on the front side pops out, it's easy to fix. Refill the hole with color-matched wood filler (it'll work for composite trim, too). Scrape the top of the repair gently with a putty knife to remove excess filler -- otherwise you'll leave a noticeable bump.
If you can't find color-matched filler, repair the hole and gently sand the area smooth. Spot paint to match.
Related: More Tips for Repairing Old Trim and Molding (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/repair-tips/repair-trim-molding-9th-day-christmas/)
 The Trick to Spiffing Up Grody Grout
 Image: Virginia from LiveLoveDIY (http://www.livelovediy.com/2012/08/how-to-restore-grout.html)
 The problem: When Virginia from LiveLoveDIY painted her kitchen cabinets bright white, her dingy tile grout became a real eyesore.
Sure, cleaning agents like hydrogen peroxide (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/green-cleaning/uses-for-hydrogen-peroxide/) can brighten discolored floors, but they won't do much for grout. Grout is gritty and easily stains; despite scrubbing, it may never appear clean.
The fix: Using what she calls the "best product ever," a bottle of Polyblend Grout Renew (there are other brands, too), a stain- and fade-resistant grout paint in snow white. It cost $10 for an 8-ounce bottle, which was enough to cover the all grout in her kitchen.
 Image: Virginia from LiveLoveDIY
Tool list:
          Grout paint

          Toothbrush

          Rags or paper towels

How to:

1. Squeeze a dollop of paint on the grout and scrub it in with a toothbrush. (The paint Virginia used dries fast, so you'll need to work quickly.)
2. Wipe off the excess from tile with a paper towel.
Including a few breaks, it took her about four hours to complete the job, which she says was time well-spent. Virginia also says the grout paint is easy to keep clean.
Tip: You might also want to seal the grout paint after it dries.
Related: More handy repair fixes (http://www.houselogic.com/maintenance-repair/repair-tips/) for everything from leaky windows (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/saving-energy/got-leaky-windows-3-low-cost-tips-fix-them/) to stripped screws (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/repair-tips/99-cent-store-solution-5-fix-stripped-screw/).

What's the No. 1 Thing People Want in Their Bathroom?



What's the No. 1 Thing People Want in Their Bathroom?

Article From HouseLogic.com


By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: October 23, 2013


Bathroom exhaust fans make air smell (much!) sweeter, paint last longer, and mold grow slower -- or not at all. If you don't have one, you're missing out.

A bathroom exhaust fan is an inexpensive upgrade that packs a value punch. The shoe-box-size fan clears obnoxious bathroom odors (priceless!) and removes moisture, which protects your home and health, and reduces maintenance costs.
And, it turns out, everyone wants one. Exhaust fans are the No. 1 feature homebuyers want in a bathroom, says a National Association of Home Builders report. Ninety percent ranked exhaust fan as No. 1, with linen closet second, and a separate tub and shower as third. Who knew?

Still, many homes don't have a bathroom fan. Although the fans are required by building code in many places, older homes -- pre-1960s -- didn't routinely install them. And homeowners today may be reluctant to retrofit bathrooms with an appliance that requires venting to snake through attics, joists, soffits, and ultimately punctures an exterior wall or roof.

We feel your fear, and we're here to help. Below, we break down everything you need to know about selecting and installing a bathroom exhaust fan.

What Does a Bathroom Exhaust Fan Do?

A bathroom exhaust fan is a small, ceiling- or wall-mounted fan that pulls air from the bathroom, sends it through venting (4-inch is preferable), and deposits it outside.

This helps you and your home by:
          Improving indoor air quality, especially by removing bathroom smells.

          Removing shower and bath humidity.

          De-fogging mirrors.

          Thwarting mold growth.

          Preventing door and window warp.

          Slowing fixture rust.

          Retarding paint blister and wallpaper peel.

Related: How To Kill and Prevent Household Mold (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/bathrooms/bathroom-mold/)

How Are Fans Rated?

Exhaust fans are measured by two factors found on the fan's box:
          CFM (cubic feet per minute): Indicates the strength of the fan's draw. CFM's can range from 50 to 1,000-plus, although most bathrooms typically require fans with less than 200 CFM.

          Sone: Measures of the sound the fan makes, typically from 0.5 (almost silent) to 4.0 (sounds like a normal television) -- loud for a fan, but it does provide privacy against toilet sounds, especially nice for powder rooms often located near public areas of your home.

Most people choose a 1- or 2-sone fan -- quiet enough keep your teeth from rattling, but not so quiet that you'll forget it's on.

CFM and sone are related, because stronger fans -- with higher CFMs -- usually create more noise; quieter fans -- lower sone -- often can't adequately clear air from bigger areas.

The important thing is to pick a fan that's right for your space, ears, and budget.

Sizing Your Fan

The Home Ventilating Institute, which tests and certifies manufacture claims, suggests that homeowners follow these formulas when sizing a fan:

For bathrooms less than 100 sq. ft.
: Calculate your bathroom's square footage (length x width), and pick a fan with at least that number of CFMs. For example: If your bathroom is 6 feet by 8 feet, you should buy a fan that's at least 48 CFM. A 50-CFM model comes closest and is the minimum size suggested for small bathrooms.

Size a fan for a ginormous bathroom: If your bathroom is bigger than 100 sq. ft., forget about the square footage figure; instead assign a CFM capacity for each fixture:
          50 CFM -- toilet.

          50 CFM -- bathtub.

          100 CFM -- jetted whirlpool tub.

          50 CFM -- shower.

If you have a completely tricked-out bathroom, you may need at least 200 CFM of draw, which you can accomplish with several 50-CFM fans (one fan should be in separate toilet enclosure), or one big, 200-CFM fan.

How To Install Your Fan

Bathroom fan installation isn't brain surgery -- collect air here; exhaust air out there. But it's not for beginners either, because the project includes removing drywall, perhaps drilling through joists, certainly busting through an exterior wall or roof.

We suggest hiring an HVAC pro, who will charge $150-$700.

If you decide to install a fan yourself, here are some decisions you'll have to make:

Location: If you have a separate WC, put a small fan there. If your toilet is part of the bathroom, locate the fan between the toilet and tub/shower.

Venting: Exhaust flows through venting attached to the fan and out an exterior wall or roof. Never vent smelly, damp air into an attic or crawl space, which will warp rafters and promote mold growth.

The idea is to run venting the shortest, straightest path from the bathroom to outside. Every extra foot and bend the venting makes increases friction and decreases air draw and fan efficiency.

Appropriate venting runs up into your attic, then along or through floor joists until it reaches the eaves. From there, it can be exhausted out a soffit.

In some instances it may be more practical (and less expensive) to run the vent directly out a wall, or through a vent stack in your roof.

Door clearance: During installation, make sure your bathroom door has at least ¾-inch clearance from the floor, so "makeup air" can easily replace the sucked-out air, putting less stress on the fan.

Related: A Replacement Fan That's Easy to Install (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/bathrooms/bathroom-fan/)

Fan Options

Bathroom exhaust fans come in custom styles and colors, but most of us would rather spend our decor budget elsewhere and will choose an off-the-rack fan with one or more of the following options:

Fan only: If you're retrofitting a small bathroom that already has a ceiling fixture, select a basic fan, 50-70 CFM. Cost: $15-$50.

Fan-and-light combo: Good for small bathrooms or WCs. Choose a combo with enough wattage to sufficiently light the area, typically upwards of 60 watts. Cost: $30-$150.

Deluxe combo: All the bells and whistles -- fan, light, heater, nightlight, timer (necessary for super-quiet fans you won't remember are on), humidistat (automatically turns on fan when air moisture rises). Cost: $150-$600.

Friday, March 27, 2009

Hurry up and Buy - Home supply going down.

SUPPLY OF HOMES ON THE MARKET GOING DOWN ON THE NORTH SHORE OF MASSACHUSETTS


North Shore, MA - The inventory of homes has been steadily dropping on the north shore since the begiining of the year. Typically as we get closer to spring we see the supply increase, but that is not occurring this year. It seems that savvy homebuyers and investors are snapping up properties left and right with the mind set that we are at the bottom of the market and it doesn't make sense to wait. Add to that the very low mortgage interest rates (below 5%) and the $8,000 tax credit for first time home buyers, and the result is a frenzy of people trying to get the best real estate deals.

According to MLS, the number of homes (condos, single family and multies) currently on the market on the north shore of massachusetts is 3,877. Last year on this same date (March 27th) there were 4,988 homes on the market. That's a drop of 22% over 2008!

Although inventory dropped for all types of homes, multifamily homes dropped the most. In 2008 there were 658 multies on the market, today there is 350! That is almost a 50% drop in the number of 2, 3 and 4 family homes available to choose from over last year. I'm not supprised by this because the list price of multies has dropped over 35% since 2005. You can actually buy a 2 family home as an investment and have positive cash flow from it - something you haven't been able to do in several years.

Here is a link to a video from WBZ TV in Boston about the current market:
Jim Armstrong