How to Reduce Your Water Heater's Energy Use

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Joe Bousquin
Published: June 20, 2013

Easy and cheap ways to make your water heater more energy efficient.

In the saving energy fight, the hot water heater is a born loser. That's because most of us have a conventional storage-type water heater.

That water storage tank works constantly to keep water hot and ready whenever you want it. But as the water sits, it naturally cools down, a process known as "standby heat loss." When the water cools, the burner or heating element kicks on to warm it up again, in a constantly repeating cycle.

Water heating is the second largest energy hog in your home, accounting for 14% to 18% of your household's total energy costs - between $400 and $600 per year. (Heating and cooling (http://www.houselogic.com/maintenance-repair/preventative-home-maintenance/heating-cooling/) is the #1 energy hog.)

Here are 5 tips to trim your water heating costs:

#1 Turn Down the Tank's Thermostat

For every 10 degrees you turn it down, you'll save 3% to 5% on your bill. Most water heaters come preset at 140 degrees, which has the added risk of scalding. The Energy Department recommends most households lower it to 120 degrees. That's high enough for your needs, and high enough to reduce mineral buildup in your tank and pipes.

Here's how to ensure you get 120 degrees:

          •First measure to see what temperature your water is at now. Don't trust the thermostat. They are often inaccurate. Instead, use a thermometer to measure the temperature of the hot water at the faucet farthest away from the heater.

          •To remember this setting, mark that temperature on your thermostat.

          •Now turn down the thermostat to what you think will be 120 degrees, based on your earlier measurement.

          •Wait at least 2 hours. Measure the water temperature again at the same far-away faucet. It may take a few attempts to get it right.

          •Once it's right, mark that spot on your thermostat so you'll remember it.

If the thermostat on your water heater doesn't have a numbered gauge, put it midway between the "low" and "medium" marks. Wait a day, and then measure the tap temperature as described above. Keep adjusting until you hit your target temperature.

Keep in mind that some water heaters have two thermostats - one for the bottom heating element and one for the top.

Related: 4 more effective ways to take back your energy bills

 #2: Use Less Hot Water

 One sure way to cut hot water costs is to use less of it. (http://www.houselogic.com/green-living/saving-water/)

 A family of four showering five minutes a day uses 700 gallons of water each week - a three-year supply of drinking water for one person!

Simply by installing low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators ($10 to $20 each), you'll cut your hot water consumption by 25% to 60%. Plus, you'll save on your water bill. That family of four using low-flow fixtures can save 14,000 gallons of water a year.

Also, make sure you use the "economy" setting on your dishwasher (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/appliances/dishwasher-buying-guide/), and break the pre-washing habit. Modern dishwashers can handle a dirty dish. Scrape what's left of dinner into the trash or compost bin and then load.

Related: Low-Flow Isn't What It Used to Be (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/plumbing/ultra-low-flow-shower-heads-more-less/)

 #3: Drain the Sediment

Tanks naturally build up sediment, which reduces efficiency and makes saving energy a challenge. ?Draining the tank will keep it running efficiently. And it's really easy to do:

          •Turn off the water and power to the unit. On a gas unit, set the burner to "pilot."

          •Connect a garden hose to the spigot at the base of the tank.

          •With the other end of the hose pointed at your floor drain, carefully lift the tank's pressure-relief valve and turn on the tank's spigot; water should begin to flow.

Tip: While most manufacturers recommend draining the tank once or twice a year, you don't have to drain it completely; in fact, the Department of Energy recommends draining less water more often - just a quart every three months.

Related: How to Care for Your Water Heater (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/water-heaters/water-heater-maintenance/)

 #4: Insulate Exposed Hot-Water Pipes

By insulating your hot water pipes, water will arrive at the faucet 2 to 4 degrees warmer, which means you won't have to wait as long for it to heat up, thus saving energy, water, and money.

While this isn't an expensive DIY job - 6-ft.-long, self-sealing sleeves ($2.50) easily slip over pipes - it could take effort, depending on where your hot water pipes are located. Exposed pipes in the basement are easy targets: Hard-to-reach pipes in crawl spaces or walls might not be worth the trouble.

#5 Insulate Your Hot Water Tank

If you have an older tank, and especially if it's located in an unheated space, wrapping it with an insulating blanket is a cheap and easy way to reduce costs.

Manufacturers have figured this out, so most newer models already are insulated. It's easy to find out which one you have. Look on its label to see if it has an R-value of at least 24. If not, you should insulate your tank.
With these older models, an insulating blanket can cut heat loss by 25% to 45% and save 4% to 9% on the average water-heating bill (source: American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (http://aceee.org/consumer/water-heating#minimize) ).

Insulating blankets are easy to install and inexpensive ($20). When dressing your tank for saving energy, be careful not to block the thermostat on an electric water heater or the air inlet and exhaust on a gas unit.

If you have a newer model that's already insulated, don't make the mistake of thinking you can get additional savings by adding a layer of insulation. It can block critical components and become hazardous. Check with your manufacturer.

Related:

          •When to Replace Your Water Heater (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/water-heaters/water-heaters-repair-or-replace/)

          •Water Heater Buying Guide (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/water-heaters/hot-water-heater-buyers-guide/)

          •The Good and the Bad About Tankless Water Heaters (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/water-heaters/tankless-water-heater-right-you/)

What's the No. 1 Thing People Want in Their Bathroom?

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: October 23, 2013

Bathroom exhaust fans make air smell (much!) sweeter, paint last longer, and mold grow slower -- or not at all. If you don't have one, you're missing out.

A bathroom exhaust fan is an inexpensive upgrade that packs a value punch. The shoe-box-size fan clears obnoxious bathroom odors (priceless!) and removes moisture, which protects your home and health, and reduces maintenance costs.

And, it turns out, everyone wants one. Exhaust fans are the No. 1 feature homebuyers want in a bathroom, says a National Association of Home Builders report. Ninety percent ranked exhaust fan as No. 1, with linen closet second, and a separate tub and shower as third. Who knew?

Still, many homes don't have a bathroom fan. Although the fans are required by building code in many places, older homes -- pre-1960s -- didn't routinely install them. And homeowners today may be reluctant to retrofit bathrooms with an appliance that requires venting to snake through attics, joists, soffits, and ultimately punctures an exterior wall or roof.

We feel your fear, and we're here to help. Below, we break down everything you need to know about selecting and installing a bathroom exhaust fan.

What Does a Bathroom Exhaust Fan Do?

A bathroom exhaust fan is a small, ceiling- or wall-mounted fan that pulls air from the bathroom, sends it through venting (4-inch is preferable), and deposits it outside.

This helps you and your home by:

          •Improving indoor air quality, especially by removing bathroom smells.

          •Removing shower and bath humidity.

          •De-fogging mirrors.

          •Thwarting mold growth.

          •Preventing door and window warp.

          •Slowing fixture rust.

          •Retarding paint blister and wallpaper peel.

Related: How To Kill and Prevent Household Mold (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/bathrooms/bathroom-mold/)

How Are Fans Rated?

Exhaust fans are measured by two factors found on the fan's box:

          •CFM (cubic feet per minute): Indicates the strength of the fan's draw. CFM's can range from 50 to 1,000-plus, although most bathrooms typically require fans with less than 200 CFM.

          •Sone: Measures of the sound the fan makes, typically from 0.5 (almost silent) to 4.0 (sounds like a normal television) -- loud for a fan, but it does provide privacy against toilet sounds, especially nice for powder rooms often located near public areas of your home.

Most people choose a 1- or 2-sone fan -- quiet enough keep your teeth from rattling, but not so quiet that you'll forget it's on.

CFM and sone are related, because stronger fans -- with higher CFMs -- usually create more noise; quieter fans -- lower sone -- often can't adequately clear air from bigger areas.

The important thing is to pick a fan that's right for your space, ears, and budget.

Sizing Your Fan

The Home Ventilating Institute, which tests and certifies manufacture claims, suggests that homeowners follow these formulas when sizing a fan:

For bathrooms less than 100 sq. ft.: Calculate your bathroom's square footage (length x width), and pick a fan with at least that number of CFMs. For example: If your bathroom is 6 feet by 8 feet, you should buy a fan that's at least 48 CFM. A 50-CFM model comes closest and is the minimum size suggested for small bathrooms.

Size a fan for a ginormous bathroom: If your bathroom is bigger than 100 sq. ft., forget about the square footage figure; instead assign a CFM capacity for each fixture:

          •50 CFM -- toilet.

          •50 CFM -- bathtub.

          •100 CFM -- jetted whirlpool tub.

          •50 CFM -- shower.

If you have a completely tricked-out bathroom, you may need at least 200 CFM of draw, which you can accomplish with several 50-CFM fans (one fan should be in separate toilet enclosure), or one big, 200-CFM fan.

How To Install Your Fan

Bathroom fan installation isn't brain surgery -- collect air here; exhaust air out there. But it's not for beginners either, because the project includes removing drywall, perhaps drilling through joists, certainly busting through an exterior wall or roof.

We suggest hiring an HVAC pro, who will charge $150-$700.

If you decide to install a fan yourself, here are some decisions you'll have to make:

Location: If you have a separate WC, put a small fan there. If your toilet is part of the bathroom, locate the fan between the toilet and tub/shower.

Venting: Exhaust flows through venting attached to the fan and out an exterior wall or roof. Never vent smelly, damp air into an attic or crawl space, which will warp rafters and promote mold growth.

The idea is to run venting the shortest, straightest path from the bathroom to outside. Every extra foot and bend the venting makes increases friction and decreases air draw and fan efficiency.

Appropriate venting runs up into your attic, then along or through floor joists until it reaches the eaves. From there, it can be exhausted out a soffit.

In some instances it may be more practical (and less expensive) to run the vent directly out a wall, or through a vent stack in your roof.

Door clearance: During installation, make sure your bathroom door has at least ¾-inch clearance from the floor, so "makeup air" can easily replace the sucked-out air, putting less stress on the fan.

Related: A Replacement Fan That's Easy to Install (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/bathrooms/bathroom-fan/)

Fan Options

Bathroom exhaust fans come in custom styles and colors, but most of us would rather spend our decor budget elsewhere and will choose an off-the-rack fan with one or more of the following options:

Fan only: If you're retrofitting a small bathroom that already has a ceiling fixture, select a basic fan, 50-70 CFM. Cost: $15-$50.

Fan-and-light combo: Good for small bathrooms or WCs. Choose a combo with enough wattage to sufficiently light the area, typically upwards of 60 watts. Cost: $30-$150.

Deluxe combo: All the bells and whistles -- fan, light, heater, nightlight, timer (necessary for super-quiet fans you won't remember are on), humidistat (automatically turns on fan when air moisture rises). Cost: $150-$600.

Should You Buy Flood Insurance?

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Dona DeZube
Published: June 19, 2013

If you have a mortgage (http://www.houselogic.com/home-taxes-financing/home-loans-mortgages/) on your home and you live in a high-risk flood zone, in most cases, your lender requires you to buy flood insurance.

However, if you live in a moderate- to low-risk zone, and your community belongs to the National Flood Insurance Program (most do), then you have the option of buying it.

If you're in the latter category, your first question probably is, "How much does it cost?" Federal flood insurance can cost just a few hundred dollars or as much as $10,000 a year, depending on your risk factor.

Some other facts that can help you make up your mind:

Your Homeowners Insurance Doesn't Cover Flood Damage

It only covers water falling from the sky. Once water touches the ground and enters your home, it's a flood (http://www.houselogic.com/protect-your-home/floods/), and only flood insurance will pay for the damage.

For example, if a tree limb pokes a hole in your roof during a rainstorm, and rainwater damages your ceiling and floor, that's covered by your homeowners insurance. But if heavy rain causes the creek in your neighborhood to overflow into your home, that's covered only by flood insurance.

To be more precise, the National Flood Insurance Program uses this definition of a flood:

A general and temporary condition of partial or complete inundation of two or more acres of normally dry land area or of two or more properties (at least one of which is your property) from overflow of inland or tidal waters, from unusual and rapid accumulation or runoff of surface waters from any source, or from mudflow.

Everyone Lives in a Flood Zone

It's just a matter of how much risk of flood there is. The NFIP can tell you your home's exact risk of flooding. But in a nutshell, zones A and V are high risk areas. Moderate- to low-risk areas are zones B, C, and X. If you're in zone D, the risk isn't clearly known because it hasn't been mapped yet. But you still can purchase flood insurance. The zones are used to help determine policy rates.

More Than 20% of Flood Insurance Claims Come From Moderate-to-Low Zones

That's 1 out of 5. And that's not counting homeowners who weren't insured and, therefore, couldn't file claims. No one knows how many uninsured there are, although only 18% of homeowners have flood insurance.

You Can't Count on Government Aid

Government aid comes largely in the form of loans, which you will have to repay. Before you can even qualify for a loan, your area has to be declared a federal disaster area, and federal disaster assistance is declared in less than half of all flooding events.

The Average Flood Claim is $30,000

But if you live where the water rises so high that emergency responders have to cut roof holes to rescue people, your potential flood loss could be quite a bit higher.

Cost of damage to a 2,000-sq.-ft. home by 6 inches of floodwater:

 Finished floor, wood, carpeting $15,870 Doors, base trim, windows
$2,150 Electrical, plumbing $320
Cleaning
$2000 Kitchen and bath cabinets $4,500 Appliances $180 Washer, dryer $150 Repairs to furnace/AC $270 Bedroom furniture $1,800 Kitchenware and food $330 Living room furniture $2,700
Computer accessories $1,100 Media equipment $150 Accent furniture and accessories $450 Personal items $650 Total $39,150 1,000 sq. ft. home is $20,150

If You Decide You Want to Purchase Flood Insurance

To get an idea of how much coverage you'll need, create a home inventory (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/home-inventories/home-inventory-tools) and then estimate the cost of repairing or rebuilding your home. Together, those two figures are your total potential loss.

A federal flood policy would cover rebuilding costs up to $250,000. You can also get a NFIP to cover up to $100,000 in possessions. One or both of those.

What Flood Insurance Covers (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/disaster-insurance/what-does-flood-insurance-cover/)

 If your home would cost more than $250,000 to rebuild, you have to buy a private flood insurance policy called "excess coverage" to insure the value of your home above $250,000. Ask your insurance agent for options.

Questions to Ask Your Agent

FEMA's online flood map locator (http://www.floodsmart.gov/floodsmart/pages/residential_coverage/rc_overview.jsp) can estimate your premium and help you find an agent who sells federal flood insurance in your community.

When you talk to an agent, make sure you get answers to these questions:

          •What will and won't be covered?

          •Are there additional expenses or agency fees?

          •Will my policy insure me for the actual cost of replacing items, or just what the items are valued at?

          •Can my zone change, and therefore, my rates? The NFIP is reworking its maps, which is resulting in some potential rate changes.

Related: 7 Myths About Flood Insurance (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/disaster-insurance/flood-insurance-facts/)

7 Smart Strategies for Kitchen Remodeling

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: John Riha
Published: May 30, 2013

Follow these 7 strategies to get the most financial gain on your kitchen remodel.

Homeowners spend more money on kitchen remodeling than on any other home improvement project. And with good reason: Kitchens are the hub of home life, and a source of pride.

And if done right, a kitchen remodel can recoup much of its cost. Kitchen remodels in the $50,000 to $60,000 range recoup about 69% of the initial project cost when the home is sold.

A minor kitchen remodel of about $18,500 does even better, returning more than 75% of your investment, according to the most recent Cost vs. Value (http://www.houselogic.com/home-topics/cost-v-value/) data from Remodeling magazine.

To maximize your return on investment, follow these 7 strategies to keep you on budget and help you make smart choices.

1. Plan, Plan, Plan

Planning your kitchen remodel should take more time than the actual construction. If you plan well, the amount of time you're inconvenienced by construction mayhem will be minimized. Plus, you're more likely to stay on budget.

How much time should you spend planning? The National Kitchen and Bath Association recommends at least six months. That way, you won't be tempted to change your mind during construction and create change orders, which will inflate construction costs and hurt your return on investment.

Some tips on planning:

Study your existing kitchen: How wide is the doorway into your kitchen? It's a common mistake many homeowners make: Buying the extra-large fridge only to find they can't get it in the doorway. To avoid mistakes like this, create a drawing of your kitchen with measurements for doorways, walkways, counters, etc. And don't forget height, too.

Think about traffic patterns: Work aisles should be a minimum of 42 inches wide and at least 48 inches wide for households with multiple cooks.

Design with ergonomics in mind: Drawers or pull-out shelves in base cabinets; counter heights that can adjust up or down; a wall oven instead of a range: These are all features that make a kitchen accessible to everyone - and a pleasure to work in.

Related: Test Your Ergonomic Design Knowledge (http://www.houselogic.com/photos/universal-design/universal-design-quiz/)

 Plan for the unforeseeable: Even if you've planned down to the number of nails you'll need in your remodel, expect the unexpected. Build in a little leeway for completing the remodel. Want it done by Thanksgiving? Then plan to be done before Halloween.

Choose all your fixtures and materials before starting: Contractors (http://www.houselogic.com/home-improvement/planning-your-remodel/contracting/) will be able to make more accurate bids, and you'll lessen the risk of delays because of back orders.

Don't be afraid to seek help: A professional designer can simplify your kitchen remodel. Pros help make style decisions, foresee potential problems, and schedule contractors. Expect fees around $50 to $150 per hour, or 5% to 15% of the total cost of the project.

More tips on planning a kitchen remodel:

Keep the same footprint (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/2/)
Get real about appliances (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/3/)
Don't underestimate the power of lighting (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/4/)
Be quality-conscious (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/5/)
Add storage, not space (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/6/)
Communicate clearly with your remodelers (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/7/)

 2. Keep the Same Footprint

Nothing will drive up the cost of a remodel faster than changing the location of plumbing pipes and electrical outlets, and knocking down walls. This is usually where unforeseen problems occur.

So if possible, keep appliances (http://www.houselogic.com/maintenance-repair/preventative-home-maintenance/appliances/), water fixtures, and walls in the same location. ??Not only will you save on demolition and reconstruction costs, you'll cut the amount of dust and debris your project generates.

More tips on planning a kitchen remodel:

Plan, plan, plan (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/)
Get real about appliances (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/3/)
Don't underestimate the power of lighting (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/4/)
Be quality-conscious (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/5/)
Add storage, not space (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/6/)
Communicate clearly with your remodelers (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/7/)

 3. Get Real About Appliances

It's easy to get carried away when planning your new kitchen. A six-burner commercial-grade range and luxury-brand refrigerator (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/appliances/refrigerator-buying-guide/) may make eye-catching centerpieces, but they may not fit your cooking needs or lifestyle.

Appliances are essentially tools used to cook and store food. Your kitchen remodel shouldn't be about the tools, but the design and functionality of the entire kitchen.

So unless you're an exceptional cook who cooks a lot, concentrate your dollars on long-term features that add value, such as cabinets and flooring.

Then choose appliances made by trusted brands that have high marks in online reviews and Consumer Reports.

More tips on planning a kitchen remodel:

Plan, plan, plan (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/)
Keep the same footprint (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/2/)
Don't underestimate the power of lighting (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/4/)
Be quality-conscious (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/5/)
Add storage, not space (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/6/)
Communicate clearly with your remodelers (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/7/)

 4. Don't Underestimate the Power of Lighting

Lighting (http://www.houselogic.com/home-improvement/lighting/) can make a world of difference in a kitchen. It can make it look larger and brighter. And it will help you work safely and efficiently. You should have two different types of lighting in your kitchen:

Task Lighting: Under-cabinet lighting should be on your must-do list, since cabinets create such dark work areas. And since you're remodeling, there won't be a better time to hard-wire your lights. (Here's more about under-cabinet lights (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lighting/under-cabinet-lighting-your-kitchen-task-masters/).) Plan for at least two fixtures per task area to eliminate shadows. Pendant lights are good for islands and other counters without low cabinets. Recessed lights and track lights work well over sinks and general prep areas with no cabinets overhead.

Ambient lighting: Flush-mounted ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, and track lights create overall lighting in your kitchen. Include dimmer switches to control intensity and mood.

Related: How to Choose the Best Bulb for the Job (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lighting/which-light-bulbs-are-best/)

 More tips on planning a kitchen remodel:

Plan, plan, plan (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/)
Keep the same footprint (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/2/)
Get real about appliances (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/3/)
Be quality-conscious (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/5/)
Add storage, not space (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/6/)
Communicate clearly with your remodelers (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/7/)

 5. Be Quality-Conscious

Functionality and durability should be top priorities during kitchen remodeling. Resist low-quality bargains, and choose products that combine low maintenance with long warranty periods. Solid-surface countertops, for instance, may cost a little more, but with the proper care, they'll look great for a long time.

And if you're planning on moving soon, products with substantial warranties are a selling advantage.

Related:

 Kitchen Remodeling Decisions You'll Never Regret (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/classic-kitchen-remodeling/)

 White: The Savvy and Chic Kitchen Color Choice (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/why-white-kitchens-stand-test-time/)

 More tips on planning a kitchen remodel:

Plan, plan, plan (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/)
Keep the same footprint (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/2/)
Get real about appliances (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/3/)
Don't underestimate the power of lighting (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/4/)
Add storage, not space (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/6/)
Communicate clearly with your remodelers (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/7/)

 6. Add Storage, Not Space

Storage (http://www.houselogic.com/home-topics/storage-solutions/) will never go out of style, but if you're sticking with the same footprint, here are a couple of ideas to add more:

Install cabinets that reach the ceiling: They may cost more - and you might need a stepladder - but you'll gain valuable storage space for Christmas platters and other once-a-year items. In addition, you won't have to dust cabinet tops.

Hang it up: Mount small shelving units on unused wall areas and inside cabinet doors; hang stock pots and large skillets on a ceiling-mounted rack; and add hooks to the backs of closet doors for aprons, brooms, and mops.

Related: Storage Options that Pack More Space in Your Kitchen (http://www.houselogic.com/photos/kitchens/kitchen-cabinets-shelves-storage/)

 More tips on planning a kitchen remodel:

Plan, plan, plan (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/)
Keep the same footprint (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/2/)
Get real about appliances (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/3/)
Don't underestimate the power of lighting (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/4/)
Be quality-conscious (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/5/)
Communicate clearly with your remodelers (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/7/)

 7. Communicate Clearly With Your Remodelers

Establishing a good rapport with your project manager or construction team is essential for staying on budget. To keep the sweetness in your project:

Drop by the project during work hours: Your presence broadcasts your commitment to quality.

Establish a communication routine: Hang a message board on site where you and the project manager can leave daily communiqués. Give your email address and cell phone number to subs and team leaders.

Set house rules: Be clear about smoking, boom box noise levels, available bathrooms, and appropriate parking.

Be kind: Offer refreshments (a little hospitality can go a long way), give praise when warranted, and resist pestering them with conversation, jokes, and questions when they are working. They'll work better when refreshed and allowed to concentrate on work.

More tips on planning a kitchen remodel:

Plan, plan, plan (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/)
Keep the same footprint (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/2/)
Get real about appliances (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/3/)
Don't underestimate the power of lighting (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/4/)
Be quality-conscious (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/5/)
Add storage, not space (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/kitchens/tips-for-kitchen-remodeling/6/)

Does a Pool Add Value to a Home?

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Julie Sturgeon
Published: July 10, 2013

Learn how a pool affects the value of your home, and get advice on construction and maintenance costs.

Does a pool add value to a home? No. And yes.

In general, building a pool is not the best way to add value to your home. You're better off making physical improvements to your actual house instead of adding a pool to your yard.

Related: What Home Projects Give the Most Value? (http://www.houselogic.com/photos/roofing-gutters-siding/cost-v-value-exterior-remodel/)

However, a pool can add value to your home in some cases:

          •If you live in a higher-end neighborhood and most of your neighbors have pools. In fact, not having a pool might make your home harder to sell.

          •If you live in a warm climate, such as Florida or Hawaii.

          •Your lot is big enough to accommodate a pool and still have some yard left over for play or gardening.

Still, that's no guarantee you'll get a return on your investment. At most, your home's value might increase 7% if all circumstances are right when it comes time to sell. Those circumstances include the points made above, plus:

          •The style of the pool. Does it fit the neighborhood?

          •The condition of the pool. Is it well-maintained?

          •Age of the pool. If you put a pool in today and sell in 20 years, you probably won't recoup your costs, especially if the pool needs updating.

          •You can attract the right buyer. Couples with very young children may shy away from pools because of safety issues, but an older childless couple may fall in love with it.

But only you, the homeowner, can determine the true return on investment. A pool can add value to your quality of life and enhance the enjoyment of your home. You can't put a price tag on that.

But we can put a price tag on how much a pool costs to build and maintain.

The Cost to Build a Pool

The average cost in the U.S. to install, equip, and fill a 600-sq.-ft. concrete pool starts at $30,000.

Add in details like safety fences (most states require them), waterfalls, lighting, landscaping, and perhaps a spa (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/pools-spas/what_to_consider_before_building_spa/), and you're easily looking at totals approaching $100,000.

Costs also depend on the type of pool you choose.

Gunite is the most popular in-ground pool. Gunite is a mixture of cement and sand, which can be poured into almost any shape. It has replaced concrete pools as the sought-after standard.

Fiberglass shells and those with vinyl liners fall on the lower end of the budget scale, but the liners typically need replacing every 10 or so years. Changing the liner requires draining the pool and replacing the edging (called coping), so over time, costs add up. Most homebuyers will insist that you replace a vinyl liner, even if it's only a few years old.

Related: Fences for Pool Safety (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/pools-spas/pool-fence-safety/)

Filtration and Heating

The filtration pump is the biggest energy hog in a pool system, so you want to get the most efficient pump possible. The good news here is that new, variable-speed pumps use up to 80% less energy than old single-speed pumps, cutting operating expenses dramatically. At about $500, these cost more up front, but some local utilities offer rebates through participating pool dealers. You can further cut energy costs by setting the pump to run at non-peak times, when rates for electricity are lower.

If you're planning to heat your pool, gas heaters are the least expensive to purchase and install, but they typically have the highest operation and maintenance costs. Many pool owners opt instead for electric heat pumps, which extract heat from the surrounding air and transfer it to the water. Heat pumps take longer than gas to warm the pool, but they're more energy-efficient, costing $200 to $400 less to operate per swimming season. Regardless of heating system, covering the pool with a solar blanket to trap heat and reduce evaporation will further lower operating costs.

Related: Solar Pool Heater Costs and Facts (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/pools-spas/solar-pool-heaters-can-lower-energy-costs/)

Maintenance Expenses

All pools require that the water be balanced for proper pH, alkalinity, and calcium levels. They also need sanitizing to control bacteria and germs, which is where chlorine has traditionally entered the picture.

These days you have a variety of options, including systems that use bromine, salt, ozone, ionizers, or other chemical compounds that can be less irritating to skin. Chlorine remains the most popular because the upfront costs are reasonable, and you don't have to be as rigid about checking the levels on a set schedule. But as far as your wallet is concerned, they all even out in the end.

In a seasonal swimming climate, budget about $600 annually for maintenance if you shoulder the chemical balancing and cleaning yourself; in a year-round climate, it's more like $15 to $25 per week.

To save yourself the task of once-a-week vacuuming, you can buy a robotic cleaning system for between $500 and $800 that will do the job for you. In locations where the pool must be opened and closed for the season, add another $500 each time for a pro to handle this task.

Related: Natural Swimming Pools (http://www.houselogic.com/photos/pools-spas/natural-swimming-pools-9-myths-busted/)

Insurance and Taxes

A basic homeowners insurance policy typically covers a pool structure without requiring a separate rider, but you should increase your liability from the standard amount.

It costs about $30 a year to bump coverage from $100,000 to $500,000. Many underwriters require you to fence in the pool so children can't wander in unsupervised.

In some areas, adding a pool may increase your annual property taxes (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/property-taxes/property-tax-appeal/), but it won't necessarily add to your home's selling price. For that reason, try to keep your total building cost between 10% and 15% of what you paid for your house, lest you invest too much in an amenity that won't pay you back.