Replacing Rain Gutters and Downspouts

Replacing Rain Gutters and Downspouts

By: Pat Curry

Replace missing gutters and downspouts to prevent serious siding and foundation damage that may cost you $10,000 or more to repair.

Your home may be your castle, but if you’re missing downspouts and sections of gutter, you’ll certainly have a moat where daisies once flourished. Excess water near your foundation risks thousands of dollars in foundation repairs. The good news is that gutter or downspout replacement only requires about $15 worth of materials and three to four hours of your time.

Cost of Replacement Gutters and Downspouts

You’ll find aluminum and vinyl gutter components surprisingly affordable. Here’s what to look for:

• Home centers sell 10-foot sections of gutter for less than $8.

• A 10-foot downspout costs you less than $13.

• Clip-up downspout extenders that snap out of the way when mowing cost about $8.

• Gutter sealant runs about $5 for a 10-ounce tube.

• Buy additional hangers and clips for 25 cents each -- the damage may have occurred because there weren’t enough of them in the first place.

• In some cases, you’ll also need some end caps ($7), joint connectors ($3), and self-tapping screws ($3).

How to Replace Missing Gutters

More often than not, an entire 10-foot section of gutter will be damaged or missing. Use a hacksaw and tin snips to cut shorter lengths of replacement gutter.

• Grab two ladders and enlist a helper.

• Remove any old joint connectors and scrape any sealant or gunk off the existing gutter.

• Do a test fit with new joint connectors.

• Fill the ends of the new joint connectors with sealant before installing the gutter.

• Loosen adjacent hangers if needed to add the replacement section.

• Add hangers every 3 feet. Confirm that the gutter is pitched toward the downspout at a slope of 1/4-inch for every 10 feet.

Related: How to Save Money by Repairing Sagging and Leaking Rain Gutters

How to Add a Downspout

• Fit the new downspout up into the drop outlet (the piece at the end of gutter that feeds into the downspout). Notice that the drop outlet fits inside the downspout section to contain the flow and keep the jointing from leaking.

• Fasten the joint with two self-tapping gutter screws. Add additional sections as needed.

• Finish the downspout with an elbow positioned at least 6 inches above grade.

• Attach the downspout extender (it should extend at least 5 feet into your yard).

Adding All-New Gutters and Downspouts

If there are lots of missing or damaged pieces, you may decide it is time for a whole new set of gutters. Most residential gutters are made of lightweight and durable aluminum. Vinyl, galvanized steel, and even copper also are options.

Aluminum gutters range from about $4.50 to $8.50 per linear foot installed. On a 2,000-square-foot house with about 180 linear feet of gutters, that’s roughly $800 to $1,500.

Related:

• Give Your Downspouts a Makeover

• How to Clean Rain Gutters

Read more: http://members.houselogic.com/articles/replacing-rain-gutters-and-downspouts/preview/#ixzz3VJuUZGtv
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8 Tips for Adding Curb Appeal and Value to Your Home

8 Tips for Adding Curb Appeal and Value to Your Home

By: Pat Curry

Here are eight ways to help your home put its best face forward.

Homes with high curb appeal command higher prices and take less time to sell. We’re not talking about replacing vinyl siding with redwood siding; we’re talking about maintenance and beautifying tasks you’d like to live with anyway.

The way your house looks from the street -- attractively landscaped and well-maintained -- can add thousands to its value and cut the time it takes to sell. But which projects pump up curb appeal most? Some spit and polish goes a long way, and so does a dose of color.

Related: Gorgeous Landscaping for Your House Means More Than Just Looks

Tip #1: Wash Your House’s Face

Before you scrape any paint or plant more azaleas, wash the dirt, mildew, and general grunge off the outside of your house. REALTORS® say washing a house can add $10,000 to $15,000 to the sale prices of some houses.

A bucket of soapy water and a long-handled, soft-bristled brush can remove the dust and dirt that have splashed onto your wood, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick, and fiber cement siding. Power washers (rental: $75 per day) can reveal the true color of your flagstone walkways.

Wash your windows inside and out, swipe cobwebs from eaves, and hose down downspouts. Don’t forget your garage door, which was once bright white. If you can’t spray off the dirt, scrub it off with a solution of 1/2 cup trisodium phosphate -- TSP, available at grocery stores, hardware stores, and home improvement centers -- dissolved in 1 gallon of water.

You and a friend can make your house sparkle in a few weekends. A professional cleaning crew will cost hundreds -- depending on the size of the house and number of windows -- but will finish in a couple of days.

Tip #2: Freshen the Paint Job

The most commonly offered curb appeal advice from real estate pros and appraisers is to give the exterior of your home a good paint job. Buyers will instantly notice it, and appraisers will value it.
 
Of course, painting is an expensive and time-consuming facelift. To paint a 3,000-square-foot home, figure on spending $375 to $600 on paint; $1,500 to $3,000 on labor.

Your best bet is to match the paint you already have: Scrape off a little and ask your local paint store to match it. Resist the urge to make a statement with color. An appraiser will mark down the value of a house that’s painted a wildly different color from its competition.

Tip #3: Regard the Roof

The condition of your roof is one of the first things buyers notice and appraisers assess. Missing, curled, or faded shingles add nothing to the look or value of your house. If your neighbors have maintained or replaced their roofs, yours will look especially shabby.

You can pay for roof repairs now, or pay for them later in a lower appraisal; appraisers will mark down the value by the cost of the repair. According to "Remodeling" magazine’s 2015 "Cost vs. Value Report," the average cost of a new asphalt shingle roof is about $19,500.

Some tired roofs look a lot better after you remove 25 years of dirt, moss, lichens, and algae. Don’t try cleaning your roof yourself: call a professional with the right tools and technique to clean it without damaging it. A 2,000-square-foot roof will take a day and $400 to $600 to clean professionally.

Tip #4: Neaten the Yard

A well-manicured lawn, fresh mulch, and pruned shrubs boost the curb appeal of any home.

Replace overgrown bushes with leafy plants and colorful annuals. Surround bushes and trees with dark or reddish-brown bark mulch, which gives a rich feel to the yard. Put a crisp edge on garden beds, pull weeds and invasive vines, and plant a few geraniums in pots.

Green up your grass with lawn food and water. Cover bare spots with seeds and sod, get rid of crab grass, and mow regularly.

Tip #5: Add a Color Splash

Even a little color attracts and pleases the eye of would-be buyers.

Plant a tulip border in the fall that will bloom in the spring. Dig a flowerbed by the mailbox and plant some pansies. Place a brightly colored bench or Adirondack chair on the front porch. Get a little daring, and paint the front door red or blue.

These colorful touches won’t add to the value of our house: Appraisers don’t give you extra points for a blue bench. But beautiful colors enhance curb appeal and help your house to sell faster.

Related: Colorful Plants with Curb Appeal

Tip #6: Glam Your Mailbox

An upscale mailbox, architectural house numbers, or address plaques can make your house stand out.

High-style die cast aluminum mailboxes range from $100 to $350. You can pick up a handsome, hand-painted mailbox for about $50. If you don’t buy new, at least give your old mailbox a facelift with paint and new house numbers.

These days, your local home improvement center or hardware stores has an impressive selection of decorative numbers. Architectural address plaques, which you tack to the house or plant in the yard, typically range from $80 to $200. Brass house numbers range from $3 to $11 each, depending on size and style.

Related: 11 Ways to Create a Welcoming Front Entrance for Under $100

Tip #7: Fence Yourself In

A picket fence with a garden gate to frame the yard is an asset. Not only does it add visual punch to your property, appraisers will give extra value to a fence in good condition, although it has more impact in a family-oriented neighborhood than an upscale retirement community.

Expect to pay $2,000 to $3,500 for a professionally installed gated picket fence 3 feet high and 100 feet long.

If you already have a fence, make sure it’s clean and in good condition. Replace broken gates and tighten loose latches.

Tip #8: Maintenance is a Must

Nothing looks worse from the curb -- and sets off subconscious alarms -- like hanging gutters, missing bricks from the front steps, or peeling paint. Not only can these deferred maintenance items damage your home, but they can decrease the value of your house by 10%.

Here are some maintenance chores that will dramatically help the look of your house:

• Refasten sagging gutters.

• Repoint bricks that have lost their mortar.

• Reseal cracked asphalt.

• Straighten shutters.

• Replace cracked windows.

Read more: http://members.houselogic.com/articles/adding-curb-appeal-value-to-home/preview/#ixzz3VJgcPT3S
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Protect Your Roof, and You'll Protect Your Home

Ah, the humble roof. We forget that the single most important structural element in our home is the roof. It provides shelter for those we love and the things we value.

It’s easy to let maintenance slide on something we take for granted. With better weather days upon us, now is a good time to inspect the roof and make sure it’s up to the task of protecting your home’s value.

Here are some crucial elements you’ll want to look for during a home roof inspection:

1. Are the gutters clean and in good shape? Organic debris building up in your gutters can cause water to pool and foster an environment for roof rot.

2. Do you see any curling around the bottom edges? Are there any gaps or holes in the soffit?

3. Are there surface cracks in shingles? Cracks warn you of impending disintegration or separation.

4. Is the flashing in good shape? Flashing is material installed to prevent the passage of water into a structure from a joint. This often amounts to shaped metal around seams for chimneys, vents, etc.

5. Are there any blisters? This could reveal a defect or possibly insufficient ventilation.

6. Is the insulation in good shape? Attic insulation can protect a roof from warping and reducing overall moisture in your home. Additionally, it helps keep snow from melting and refreezing, a major contributor to water damage.

7. Is anything going to fall on the roof? Part of roof maintenance is ensuring there’s nothing which might cause an undue load on the house. This includes rotten trees or dangerous overhanging limbs. It’s also a good idea to look at areas which may be eroded by vegetation or tree contact.

A happy roof makes for a happy home. May these simple tips help you protect your home for years to come. - Jim Armstrong 

How to Unclog a Gutter

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Douglas Trattner
Published: January 23, 2013

Unclog a blocked rain gutter as quickly as possible to prevent damage to your landscaping, home exterior, gutters, and foundation.

Clean your rain gutters (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/how-to-clean-rain-gutters/) at least twice a year. Otherwise, debris like leaves and twigs can clog up your gutter system, causing potential harm to your house and landscaping (http://www.houselogic.com/outdoors/landscaping-gardening/) -- not to mention the gutters themselves. Here's how to identify and fix a clogged gutter.

Is My Gutter Clogged (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/fast-fixes-common-gutter-problems/)?

When it rains, here are the telltale signs of a clogged gutter:

          •Water spills over the edges of a gutter.

          •Water sprays like a fountain from gutter seams and elbow joints.

          •Water doesn't flow out the bottom of downspout extensions.

If it's not raining, look for these telltale signs:

          •Eroded earth directly below a gutter.

          •Peeling paint on siding and fascia.

          •Wet, moist, or dirty siding (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/roofing-gutters-siding/how-to-clean-siding/) beneath the gutter.

          •Gutters pulling away from the fascia (likely caused by excessive weight).

Where's the Gutter Clogged?

The downspout cage, a wire strainer designed to trap debris while allowing water to flow through, is located where the downspout intersects the gutter. Often, this item is bent or out of place.

Gutter hangers and spikes often slip free from the fascia, landing in the gutter. These obstructions catch leaves and twigs, causing clogs.

Downspout elbows and seams are likely spots for clogs, too. Working your way down from the gutter, tap the outside of the downspout with a screwdriver and listen for a dull thud (as opposed to hollow ring). This will indicate the location of the clog.

If you still haven't identified the location of the clog - and you have downspouts that descend below ground level - then the clog likely is in an underground pipe.

How to Unclog a Gutter

If the clog occurs at the downspout cage:

1. Remove and clean it.
2. Remove all the accumulated debris in the gutter.
3. If the cage is in good shape, firmly re-seat it into the downspout hole.
4. If the cage is damaged or missing, replacement screens cost just a few bucks.

If the clog is caused by loose hangers or spikes:

1. Clean debris from clogs.
2. Reposition or repair the gutter supports.

If the clog occurs at an elbow or seam - and you can reach it from above:

1. Try to free the obstruction with a stick, plumbing snake, or pressure washer outfitted with a telescoping wand.
2. If you can't reach it, simply disassemble the downspout and remove the clog.

If the clog is below-grade, it's the most difficult to clear, and may require excavation. But before that:

1. Remove the downspout where it enters the ground and try to clear the clog using a plumbing snake.
2. Turn on a garden hose and force it into the underground portion of the line; the water pressure may dislodge the clog.

Season-by-Season Lawn Maintenance Calendar

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Douglas Trattner
Published: April 08, 2013

Follow our season-by-season lawn maintenance calendar to get a barefoot-worthy lawn and ensure great curb appeal.

Early Spring

Like so many maintenance jobs, everything goes smoother - and you'll get better results - with proper preparation. Early spring is the time to get ready for lawn-growing and mowing season.

Sharpen mower blades to ensure clean cuts. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving jagged edges that discolor the lawn and invite pathogens.

Sharpen mower blades (http://www.houselogic.com/news/lawns/lawn-mower-care-sharpen-blade-clean-cut/) once each month during grass-cutting season. Have a backup blade (about $20) so that a sharp one is always on hand.

Tune up your mower with a new sparkplug ($3-$5) and air filter ($5-$10). Your mower might not need a new sparkplug every season, but changing it is a simple job, and doing it every year ensures you won't forget the last time you replaced your sparkplug.

Buy fresh gas. Gas that's been left to sit over the winter can accumulate moisture that harms small engines. This is especially true for fuel containing ethanol, so use regular grades of gasoline.

If you need to dump old gasoline, ask your city or county for local disposal sites that take old fuel.

Clean up your lawn. Time to get out the leaf rakes and remove any twigs and leaves that have accumulated over the winter. A thick layer of wet leaves can smother a lawn if not immediately removed in early spring. Cleaning up old debris clears the way for applying fertilizer and herbicides.

Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)

 Spring

Depending on your weather, your grass will now start growing in earnest, so be ready for the first cutting. Don't mow when the grass is wet - you could spread diseases, and wet clippings clog up lawn mowers.

Fertilizing: Both spring and fall are good times to fertilize your lawn. In the northern third of the country, where winters are cold, fertilize in fall - cool weather grasses go dormant over winter and store energy in their roots for use in the spring.

For the rest of the country, apply fertilizer just as your grass begins its most active growth. For best results, closely follow the application directions on the product. You'll spend about $50 to $75 per application for an average ¼-acre lot.

Aeration: Aerating punches small holes in your lawn so water, fertilizers, and oxygen reach grass roots. Pick a day when the soil is damp but not soaked so the aeration machine can work efficiently.

Related: More about lawn aeration (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-aeration-tips-tools/)

Pre-emergent herbicides: Now is the time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent crabgrass and other weeds from taking root in your lawn. A soil thermometer is a handy helper; you can pick one up for $10-$20. When you soil temperature reaches 58 degrees - the temperature at which crabgrass begins to germinate - it's time to apply the herbicide.

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)

 Early Summer

Watch out for grubs: Warm weather means that grub worms, the larvae stage of June, Japanese, and other beetles, start feeding on the tender root systems of lawns. Affected lawns show browning and wilting patches.

To be certain that the culprits are grubs, pull back the sod and look for white, C-shaped grubs. If you see more than 10 per square foot, your lawn should be treated with a chemical pesticide.

Milky spore is an environmentally friendly way to control some species of grubs. When using insecticides, read and follow all label directions, and water the product into the soil immediately. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.

Grass-cutting tip: Your grass is starting to grow fast, and you might even be cutting more than once a week to keep up. To keep grass healthy, mow often enough so you're removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade.

Pesky weeds: Weeds that have escaped an herbicide application should be removed with a garden fork. Use a post-emergent herbicide only if you think the situation is getting out of hand.

Check out our guide to some common types of weeds (http://www.houselogic.com/photos/lawns/common-weeds/) and tips on how to get rid of them. (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/landscaping-gardening/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-naturally/)

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)

 Summer

Here's a good mantra to guide you through the heart of grass-mowing season: The taller the grass, the deeper the roots, the fewer the weeds, and the more moisture the soil holds between watering.

With that in mind, here's how to ensure a healthy, green lawn:

          •Set your mower blade height to 3 inches.

          •Deep and infrequent watering is better for lawns than frequent sprinkles, which promote shallow root growth. In general, lawns need about 1 inch of water per week to maintain green color and active growth.

Lawns that receive less than that will likely go dormant. That's okay, the grass is still alive, but dormant lawns should still receive at least 1 inch of water per month. Your grass will green up again when the weather brings regular rains.

          •To check the output of a sprinkler, scatter some pie tins around the yard to see how much water collects in a specific length of time. Having a rain gauge ($5 to $20) will help you keep track of how much water the lawn receives naturally.

          •At least once each month, clean underneath your mower (http://www.houselogic.com/news/lawns/clean-mower-limit-lawn-disease/) to prevent spreading lawn diseases.

          •Although it's OK to leave grass clippings on the lawn where they can decompose and nourish the soil, large clumps of clippings should be removed. Regularly rake up any leaves, twigs, and debris.

If your grass seems to be stressed out, check out our advice on what to do if your lawn is turning brown (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/brown-grass/).

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)

 Early Fall

The best time to patch bare or thin spots is when the hot, dry days of summer have given way to cooler temps. Follow these simple steps:

1. Remove any dead grass.

2. Break up the soil with a garden trowel.

3. Add an inch of compost (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/composting/start-compost-pile/) and work it into the soil.

4. Add grass seed that's designed for shade or full sun, depending on the area you're working on. Spread the seed evenly across the bare patch.

5. Use a hard-tooth rake to work the seed into the soil to a depth of about half an inch.

6. Sprinkle grass clippings over the patch to help prevent the soil from drying out.

7. Water the area; you'll want to keep the patch moist, so lightly water once a day until the seed germinates and the new grass gets about one inch tall.

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/6/)

 Fall

Your main job in fall is to keep your lawn free of leaves and other debris. You can use a mulching mower to break up leaves (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/landscaping-gardening/how-to-mulch-leaves/) and add the organic matter to your soil, but be sure to clean up any clumps so they don't kill the grass.

In the northern one-third of the country, now is the time to fertilize your lawn. Your grass will store the nutrients in its roots as it goes dormant over the winter, and your lawn will be ready for a jump start when spring warms the ground.

This is also the time to clean up your garden (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/gardens/fall-garden-cleanup/).

Early Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/)
Spring (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/2/)
Early Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/3/)
Summer (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/4/)
Early Fall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/lawns/lawn-maintenance-calendar/5/)

How to Fix Common Wall and Floor Problems

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Deirdre Sullivan
Published: September 20, 2013

Although some maintenance projects are best left to the pros, these three easy DIY fixes will give you bragging rights.

We turned to three bloggers for ideas on how to tackle some little, but nagging, household wall and floor issues.

A Made-Up Drywall Repair

The problem: Concealing drywall damage is a tricky business that requires a handful of drywall tools (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/repair-tips/must-have-drywall-tools/) and materials to make walls look like new. To fix coin-sized holes, many traditionalists use mesh or paper tape. But not Lesli DeVito, the DIY blogger behind My Old Country House.

The fix: Cosmetic wedges! DeVito first tried patching the two nickel-sized openings with cement board she had lying around, but the pieces didn't fit as you can see in the picture below (left).

Image: Lesli DeVito of My Old Country House blog (http://myoldcountryhouse.com/a-clever-way-to-patch-a-hole-in-the-wall/)

 Tool list:

          •Make-up sponges

          •Scissors

          •Spackle

          •Putty knife

          •Sandpaper

How to:

1. Cut the wedges into pieces that are slightly larger than the holes.

 2. Spackle the drywall (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/repair-tips/repair-walls-give-rooms-fresh-face/) and wipe off the excess.

 3. When the spackle dries, sand the area until it's smooth.

4. Add a fresh coat of paint.

Now DeVito challenges people to find where the holes were; go ahead, take a peek (http://myoldcountryhouse.com/a-clever-way-to-patch-a-hole-in-the-wall/).

Related: Another Clever Drywall Fix (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/repair-tips/99-cent-store-solution-3-patch-drywall-hole/)

 A Seamless Way to Remove Nails from Trim and Flooring

Image: Dadand.com (http://dadand.com)

 The problem: You can save some dough by using salvaged materials (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/green-remodeling/saving-money-salvaged-building-materials/) like trim and oak flooring. But before you can install or even safely store them, you have to pull out any old nails -- without damaging the wood.

The fix: Although you might be tempted to whack the nail from the back with a hammer and then yank it, don't. That can mar the surface. Instead, pull the nails out from the back, says Peter Fazio from the site Dadand.

Tool list:

          •Pliers

          •Work gloves

          •Drop cloth

How to:

1. Put the trim or floorboard face down on a drop cloth (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/painting/using-a-drop-cloth/) to protect the front surface.

2. Using your pliers, grab the nail and gently roll onto the curved part of the tool until the nail pops out.

If the old filler used to conceal the nail on the front side pops out, it's easy to fix. Refill the hole with color-matched wood filler (it'll work for composite trim, too). Scrape the top of the repair gently with a putty knife to remove excess filler -- otherwise you'll leave a noticeable bump.

If you can't find color-matched filler, repair the hole and gently sand the area smooth. Spot paint to match.

Related: More Tips for Repairing Old Trim and Molding (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/repair-tips/repair-trim-molding-9th-day-christmas/)

 The Trick to Spiffing Up Grody Grout

 Image: Virginia from LiveLoveDIY (http://www.livelovediy.com/2012/08/how-to-restore-grout.html)

 The problem: When Virginia from LiveLoveDIY painted her kitchen cabinets bright white, her dingy tile grout became a real eyesore.

Sure, cleaning agents like hydrogen peroxide (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/green-cleaning/uses-for-hydrogen-peroxide/) can brighten discolored floors, but they won't do much for grout. Grout is gritty and easily stains; despite scrubbing, it may never appear clean.

The fix: Using what she calls the "best product ever," a bottle of Polyblend Grout Renew (there are other brands, too), a stain- and fade-resistant grout paint in snow white. It cost $10 for an 8-ounce bottle, which was enough to cover the all grout in her kitchen.

 Image: Virginia from LiveLoveDIY

Tool list:

          •Grout paint

          •Toothbrush

          •Rags or paper towels

How to:

1. Squeeze a dollop of paint on the grout and scrub it in with a toothbrush. (The paint Virginia used dries fast, so you'll need to work quickly.)

2. Wipe off the excess from tile with a paper towel.

Including a few breaks, it took her about four hours to complete the job, which she says was time well-spent. Virginia also says the grout paint is easy to keep clean.

Tip: You might also want to seal the grout paint after it dries.

Related: More handy repair fixes (http://www.houselogic.com/maintenance-repair/repair-tips/) for everything from leaky windows (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/saving-energy/got-leaky-windows-3-low-cost-tips-fix-them/) to stripped screws (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/repair-tips/99-cent-store-solution-5-fix-stripped-screw/).

What's the No. 1 Thing People Want in Their Bathroom?

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon
Published: October 23, 2013

Bathroom exhaust fans make air smell (much!) sweeter, paint last longer, and mold grow slower -- or not at all. If you don't have one, you're missing out.

A bathroom exhaust fan is an inexpensive upgrade that packs a value punch. The shoe-box-size fan clears obnoxious bathroom odors (priceless!) and removes moisture, which protects your home and health, and reduces maintenance costs.

And, it turns out, everyone wants one. Exhaust fans are the No. 1 feature homebuyers want in a bathroom, says a National Association of Home Builders report. Ninety percent ranked exhaust fan as No. 1, with linen closet second, and a separate tub and shower as third. Who knew?

Still, many homes don't have a bathroom fan. Although the fans are required by building code in many places, older homes -- pre-1960s -- didn't routinely install them. And homeowners today may be reluctant to retrofit bathrooms with an appliance that requires venting to snake through attics, joists, soffits, and ultimately punctures an exterior wall or roof.

We feel your fear, and we're here to help. Below, we break down everything you need to know about selecting and installing a bathroom exhaust fan.

What Does a Bathroom Exhaust Fan Do?

A bathroom exhaust fan is a small, ceiling- or wall-mounted fan that pulls air from the bathroom, sends it through venting (4-inch is preferable), and deposits it outside.

This helps you and your home by:

          •Improving indoor air quality, especially by removing bathroom smells.

          •Removing shower and bath humidity.

          •De-fogging mirrors.

          •Thwarting mold growth.

          •Preventing door and window warp.

          •Slowing fixture rust.

          •Retarding paint blister and wallpaper peel.

Related: How To Kill and Prevent Household Mold (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/bathrooms/bathroom-mold/)

How Are Fans Rated?

Exhaust fans are measured by two factors found on the fan's box:

          •CFM (cubic feet per minute): Indicates the strength of the fan's draw. CFM's can range from 50 to 1,000-plus, although most bathrooms typically require fans with less than 200 CFM.

          •Sone: Measures of the sound the fan makes, typically from 0.5 (almost silent) to 4.0 (sounds like a normal television) -- loud for a fan, but it does provide privacy against toilet sounds, especially nice for powder rooms often located near public areas of your home.

Most people choose a 1- or 2-sone fan -- quiet enough keep your teeth from rattling, but not so quiet that you'll forget it's on.

CFM and sone are related, because stronger fans -- with higher CFMs -- usually create more noise; quieter fans -- lower sone -- often can't adequately clear air from bigger areas.

The important thing is to pick a fan that's right for your space, ears, and budget.

Sizing Your Fan

The Home Ventilating Institute, which tests and certifies manufacture claims, suggests that homeowners follow these formulas when sizing a fan:

For bathrooms less than 100 sq. ft.: Calculate your bathroom's square footage (length x width), and pick a fan with at least that number of CFMs. For example: If your bathroom is 6 feet by 8 feet, you should buy a fan that's at least 48 CFM. A 50-CFM model comes closest and is the minimum size suggested for small bathrooms.

Size a fan for a ginormous bathroom: If your bathroom is bigger than 100 sq. ft., forget about the square footage figure; instead assign a CFM capacity for each fixture:

          •50 CFM -- toilet.

          •50 CFM -- bathtub.

          •100 CFM -- jetted whirlpool tub.

          •50 CFM -- shower.

If you have a completely tricked-out bathroom, you may need at least 200 CFM of draw, which you can accomplish with several 50-CFM fans (one fan should be in separate toilet enclosure), or one big, 200-CFM fan.

How To Install Your Fan

Bathroom fan installation isn't brain surgery -- collect air here; exhaust air out there. But it's not for beginners either, because the project includes removing drywall, perhaps drilling through joists, certainly busting through an exterior wall or roof.

We suggest hiring an HVAC pro, who will charge $150-$700.

If you decide to install a fan yourself, here are some decisions you'll have to make:

Location: If you have a separate WC, put a small fan there. If your toilet is part of the bathroom, locate the fan between the toilet and tub/shower.

Venting: Exhaust flows through venting attached to the fan and out an exterior wall or roof. Never vent smelly, damp air into an attic or crawl space, which will warp rafters and promote mold growth.

The idea is to run venting the shortest, straightest path from the bathroom to outside. Every extra foot and bend the venting makes increases friction and decreases air draw and fan efficiency.

Appropriate venting runs up into your attic, then along or through floor joists until it reaches the eaves. From there, it can be exhausted out a soffit.

In some instances it may be more practical (and less expensive) to run the vent directly out a wall, or through a vent stack in your roof.

Door clearance: During installation, make sure your bathroom door has at least ¾-inch clearance from the floor, so "makeup air" can easily replace the sucked-out air, putting less stress on the fan.

Related: A Replacement Fan That's Easy to Install (http://www.houselogic.com/blog/bathrooms/bathroom-fan/)

Fan Options

Bathroom exhaust fans come in custom styles and colors, but most of us would rather spend our decor budget elsewhere and will choose an off-the-rack fan with one or more of the following options:

Fan only: If you're retrofitting a small bathroom that already has a ceiling fixture, select a basic fan, 50-70 CFM. Cost: $15-$50.

Fan-and-light combo: Good for small bathrooms or WCs. Choose a combo with enough wattage to sufficiently light the area, typically upwards of 60 watts. Cost: $30-$150.

Deluxe combo: All the bells and whistles -- fan, light, heater, nightlight, timer (necessary for super-quiet fans you won't remember are on), humidistat (automatically turns on fan when air moisture rises). Cost: $150-$600.